Back From Sayulita: Finally A ‘Real’ Surfer
Monday, May 28th, 2007
A little while back I talked about my surfing history. There’s not much to it. This last trip was my third real surf trip. I only rode a few waves on my first trip, which was also to Sayulita. I didn’t completely stand on any waves my second trip. That second trip was to Santa Cruz, which is far more challenging than Sayulita. Going back to Sayulita, my confidence was strong because not only were the waves easier to ride - but I was also familiar with them.
In just two days, I got a lot of good rides in. I rode a 10′ board most of the first day and an 8′ 6″ board most of the second day. The 10′ was much easier to sit on and to paddle on; but the 8′ 6″ was easier to control once I was standing up and generally speaking - more fun to ride.
For the first time, I kind of feel like a ‘real’ surfer! I’m not sure how to describe the difference. In a nutshell, I know I can catch a wave now. I’ve got so much to learn, but I’ve got a handle on the basics now. I have no idea how long it will be before I can ride again, hopefully not long.
Beyond surfing, Sayulita was a good time. Good friends, good food, and lots to see and do. I see lots of trips to Sayulita in my future.
